April 11, 2008

Healthy vs. Fashionable

Models have always been and aways will be thin with the "ideal" body. More and more though, the "waif" (which legendary model Twiggy originated) have been replaced with still thin, but healthier looking models. The pressure to be the classic waif pushed many models towards bulimia, anorexia, and other eating disorders in order to fit the fashionable mold. Many designers have been fighting this trend by hiring healthier looking models for their shows and shoots.

This being such a step forward for the fashion industry, it's disappointing that some of the biggest names out there are still choosing these unhealthy girls to model their designs. During Paris Fashion Week in January, 2008, these super-thin models were seen traipsing down the runways of both designers Armani and Valentino. With so many names trying to promote a healthier ideal, it's sad to see that these names won't use their power to do the same. Instead, they promote and encourage an unhealthy body image for both models and consumers.


In early April, fashion houses, advertising firms, and media houses in France signed an agreement with the support of the Minister of Health to stop using waif models in their shows, ads, etc. The industry is concerned about the effect these skinny models have on the body image of young girls especially, and they hope that banding together and showing a healthier model will have a positive effect on girls. According to Thatsfit.com,
"France's National Assembly is also reviewing a project that could make the promotion of unhealthy body images punishable by law."
Although this agreement isn't a binding contract, more of a show of good faith, we hope that some of the high-end Italian designers will take notice and do the same.

We think that Madrid is on the right track and is an example to be followed. During Madrid Fashion Week in February 2008, Theage.com reported that three British models were banned from walking because they were underweight. Madrid's 2006 ban of underweight models requires that all models are weighed and BMI calculated. Girls with BMI's less than 18 are not allowed to participate in Fashion Week. In 2006, five models were banned, as well as another five during 2007's Madrid Fashion Week.

Though no action as drastic as the ban in Madrid has been taken, even the industry in New York is starting to address the problem of super-skinny models on the runway. MSNBC.com reports what we hope is just the first of many steps to be taken. The Council of Fashion Designers of America, or CFDA, issued these guidelines to designers in NY:


  • Keep models under 16 off the runway and don’t allow models under 18 to work at fittings or photo shoots past midnight.
  • Educate those in the industry to identify the early warning signs of eating disorders.
  • Require models identified as having an eating disorder to receive professional help and only allow those models to continue with approval from that professional.
  • Develop workshops on the causes and effects of eating disorders, and raise awareness of the effects of smoking and tobacco-related disease.
  • During fashion shows, provide healthy meals and snacks, while prohibiting smoking and alcohol.

Unfortunately, these are merely suggestions and are not in any way enforced by the industry. They should be! Hopefully all the recent attention that has been put on waif models and the negative affect they have on girls and on the industry itself will force a change from designers and models alike.

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