FASHiON ADViVUM

Survey Says...

2008-05-05T01:02:00.008-04:00

With all the buzz lately about eco-fashion, we decided to take to the streets and find out what our fellow students at Rowan University think about the new craze. We asked 100 students about their thoughts on eco-fashion; their likes, dislikes, and if they're on the sustainable fashion bandwagon.

When asked if they knew what eco-fashion was, 58 students answered yes straight off, which slightly surprised us. Organic clothing and natural cotton are things that most people have heard about by now, but we were taken aback at just how much press and exposure the term eco-fashion itself has gotten in the last year or so. To the same question, 22 people answered no, and the other 20 had only a vague idea after the term was explained.

Sophomore Casey Marguccio was very excited when we asked her if she was an eco-enthusiast.

CM: I think eco-fashion is great! I only learned the technical term a few months back actually, but I did my freshman year of college in Texas, and a lot of the people there were really into organic and...oh, what is that word--

Fashion Advivum [FA]: Sustainable fashion?

CM: Yes! sustainable fashion. It's hard to find in stores, especially when you're not in a big city, but I've done some shopping online and I really like the products.

FA: What do you like most about the clothing?

CM: Well, of course I like that it's better for the environment. I think little things like recycling and buying clothing like this are realistic things that young people can do to make a difference. But really, even if it wasn't, I would still be buying. The fabrics are so nice! I got a shirt, it was made from bamboo I think? Oh man, it is so comfortable! It's like the softest jersey you ever felt, but better.

FA: So it's safe to say you'll continue buying eco-friendly clothing in the future?

CM: Definitely! I mean, as much as I can, being a college student and therefor poor. That's the one downfall, that a lot of the clothes tend to be a bit pricey. It's not really possible for me to buy ALL my stuff from eco-fashion places, but I try to as much as I can.

For Casey as well as many of the students we surveyed, price was a definite issue with eco-fashion. 41 of the students surveyed said that price was one of the main things that kept them from buying "green" (the eco-friendly sense of the word). 7 students also said that availability was an issue as well.

Junior Felicia Khublall says that availability is the main reason she hasn't purchased organic or sustainable clothing yet.

FK: I'm a bio major, so things having to do with the environment are important to me. I would really like to start buying "green" clothing! But when was the last time you saw a store selling stuff like that in the Deptford or Cherry Hill mall? I'm not really an online shopper, I really hate doing it actually, so for me, the lack of stores is what's keeping me back. I guess I'll have to make do with recycling for now.

FA: So if there were more stores that sold organic or sustainable clothing, you wouldn't mind spending a bit more money for clothing made of organic cotton or bamboo?

FK: Not really. I have a job here at school and stuff, so I'm not too strapped for cash, so I wouldn't mind spending a little extra money. I obviously wouldn't be going on shopping sprees, but when the clothes are so cute, it's not that big of a deal.

To those who don't really know much about eco-fashion, what the clothing actually looks like maybe one of the most surprising parts. Of the 42 people that didn't know what eco-fashion was or that had only a vague idea, 27 of them said that they pictured the stereotypical hippie clothing.

Sophomore Rob Nolte was one of those people.

RN: Yea, I really had no idea what this eco-fashion thing was. I guess it's because I'm a guy, I don't really pay attention to fashion or clothes, I just grab whatever looks good, and half the time my girlfriend dresses me [laughs]. When I read the first question [if the reader knew what eco-fashion was] the first thing I pictured a hippie smoking a bong in a striped hemp hoodie.

FA: But now that you know what eco-fashion is, and how much better it is for the environment, would you be more inclined to buy if the opportunity arose?

RN: Yea, I think I would...we all need to do our part, right? However small it is? Maybe Rowan could hop on that. They're all about being "green" lately aren't they. Maybe they could make all the Rowan clothes they sell in the bookstore eco-friendly or whatever you call it.

Luckily for us, Rob was one of the first people we surveyed, so we added that as a question on our survey. Of 93 students asked, 84 said yes, they would still be willing to buy Rowan apparel, even if the prices went up, if the clothing was eco-friendly. The other 9 said no, Rowan apparel was expensive enough.

Of 100 people, only 24 said that they owned or had previously bought some sort of sustainable clothing. But the last question of our survey asked whether he or she would be more inclined to buy "green" now that they were a bit more informed on the subject. Our question was met with an overwhelming yes! 89 students, both male and female, said that they would most likely buy some sort of sustainable clothing in the future. 7 said they would if the clothing was not so expensive. Only 4 said that they had no interest in buying eco-friendly clothing. We hope that we've inspired these students to do another small part in helping the environment, just by getting dressed in the morning. And maybe we can even inspired Donald Farish to get Rowan on the eco-fashion bandwagon!

You're Out! Or are you?

2008-05-04T21:28:00.003-04:00

Rumor has it that Nina Garcia, former fashion director of Elle magazine and Project Runway judge, just maybe be sashaying her way over to fashion giant Harper's Bazaar. Nina was recently told she was "out" by Elle because her commitments for Project Runway kept her out of the office more than she was in. Will Nina be kept on for the upcoming seasons of PR (now on Lifetime rather than Bravo)? Harper's Bazaar would be getting a lot of press if Garcia did join the team. Perhaps the new winners will be getting a spread in the glossy rather than in Elle? We'll see!

Catwalk Queen

2008-05-04T21:08:00.002-04:00

Forbes.com's 2007 list of The Top Earning Models in the World has named 27 year-old Gisele Bundchen the highest-earning model, making 33 million dollars in the last year alone. She may have ended her high profile contract as a Victoria's Secret model in 2007, but that didn't stop her. Bundchen has at least 20 other modeling contracts and has appeared in ads for various clients, including Disney, Nivea, and Aquascutum.

Bundchen's earnings last year were more than double the second ranking model on the list, Project Runway's Heidi Klum. Klum, 34, earned a respectable 14 million last year. The third model on the list, Kate Moss, earned 7.5 million through modeling contracts and the success of her fashion line.

They acutally get work!

2008-04-28T20:37:00.003-04:00

Who would have thought, some of the girls of America's Next Top Model actually do get work! Check out the first picture in the "Eco-splosion" article below...it's Renee Alway of cycle 8 on the runway for eco-designer Linda Loudermilk! And although we couldn't find a picture, according to Ecofabulous.blogs.com, Samantha Francis, also of cycle 8, was on the runway for Laura Miller during 2007's FutureFashion NYC show. Good for you, girls!

Speaking of America's Next Top Model, Lauren, the awkward-yet-beautiful girl with the horrendous walk was finally eliminated after two weeks of bad photos. Still in the running: Anya, Fatima, Whitney, Katarzyna, and Dominique.

Eco-splosion!

2008-04-28T19:35:00.004-04:00

With some trends and designs being as crazy and out there as they are, fashion has always been a matter of taste; to each his own really. But if there’s one new fashion trend (more like movement, really) that everyone can appreciate, it’s the arrival of eco-fashion on the scene.

Eco-fashion, or clothes “that take into account the environment, the health of consumers and the working conditions of people in the fashion industry” (Sustainable Technology Education Program), has flourished in the fashion world in the last few years. Eco-fashions don't involve the use of harmful chemicals and bleaches to color fabrics—and are made by people earning fair wages in healthy working conditions. Designers are turning to new exotic fabrics like Sasawashi, which is a fiber blend of Japanese paper, herbs, vitamins and amino acids said to have anti-allergen and anti-bacterial properties that purify the blood and human skin; Lenpur, which is made from wood pulp; soya, which is made from soybeans; bamboo jersey, which is anti-bacterial and deodorizing as well as highly eco-sustainable, as bamboo grows up to one a foot a day; and Eco-Spun, which is made from recycled soda bottles and when blended with organic cotton has the texture of sheepskin, as well as your basic organic cotton.

Companies like American Apparel and yoga gear retailer prAna are also using cotton that is grown and sew in the California area in order to avoid burning fossil fuels transporting the materials across the globe. Bamboo seems to be the fabric of the moment as it’s soft the touch and oh-so comfortable to wear. Designers have been using it for everything from denim to lingerie, much to the delight of eco-buyers.

In light of the recent eco-friendly explosion, environmentally conscious designs have shed their reputation of looking like burlap sacks and were transformed into stylish, chic and fashionable clothes. Whereas in previous years, “organic clothing” gave the mental image of a hippie in a striped hemp hoodie, these days high-end designers from all around the world are jumping on the eco-bandwagon and making stylish clothing while still using eco-friendly materials. Big names like Stella McCartney, Heatherette, Linda Loudermilk, and Proenza Schouler have all shown in one of the many eco-fashion shows of 2007-2008.

“People often perceive the fashion world as superficial, so it’s great to work with materials that are actually good for the environment. I had my doubts, but when we actually saw the fabric swatches we were blown away. They were gorgeous, and it wasn't hard to design with them,” says designer Richie Rich of Heatherette.

Eco-fashion is rising so fast that in time, it will be pretty hard not to join the movement and start buying eco-friendly and organic clothing. The one downside at the moment? The clothes do tend to be a bit on the pricey side. We hope that as the market gets bigger, there will be more moderately priced clothing available for those who want to do their part in helping our the environment.

Bells are ringing

2008-04-24T18:16:00.002-04:00

'Tis the season, and we don't mean Christmas. It's wedding season people, and designers wowed crowds with beautiful collections of wedding gowns during Bridal Fashion Week last week. Oscar de la Renta, Badgley Mischka, JLM Couture, and Vera Wang were just a few of the names who's pieces glided down the runway.

Pictured here is a beautiful gown by the label Platinum.

TV Update

2008-04-21T14:09:00.004-04:00

This week on America's Next Top Model, a tense bottom two has some fans wondering if the eliminations was really fair. Fatima, the refugee from Somalia, waited until the girls were told they were going out of the country to get her travel papers, therefore missing that day's photoshoot. But when she and Stacy-Ann found themselves in the bottom two, Fatima got to stay despite the missing photoshoot because her pictures were consistently better. Still in the running: Anya, Katarzyna, Dominique, Whitney, Fatima, and Lauren.

In other TV news, there's been a lot of talk recently about the Lifetime Network's aquisition of Project Runway, and how unhappy Bravo is about it. The part we're REALLY interested in is Bravo saying they were casting the new season and planning to release new episodes in the summer. What happened to Fashion Week, Bryant Park, February??

Birkin buyer bypasses waitlist - over and over

2008-04-16T14:29:00.004-04:00

Behold the elusive Hermes Birkin bag. They decorate the arms of all the rich and famous, but for the regular joe, theres a two-year wait list at least - or is there? Click here to read the article about Michael Tonello, the beautician-turned-fashion buyer who spent five years circulating through Hermes stores buying hundreds of Birkins and re-selling them to impatient wealthy clients.

Lacroix opens Manhattan Store

2008-04-14T13:55:00.007-04:00

Exciting news for all you New York fashionistas, the celebrated Christian Lacroix is opened his first store in New York on April 10th. Located on E 57th St. among names like Chanel, Dior, YSL, and Louis Vuitton, Lacroix's exuberant designs are now available in NYC for all those who can afford them.

Lacroix, Spring 2008

Meet Christina

2008-04-14T11:47:00.002-04:00

The fashion industry is one that is ever-changing, ever-moving, and new names and faces are always popping up. Last week, we got a chance to talk to FIT Fashion Design major Christina Adamo about her opinions on the fashion industry, her inspiration, and where she’s going from here.

Fashion Advivum: Welcome, Christina! How is New York City treating you?

Christina Adamo: Great, thanks! I absolutely love living and working here.

FA: So what kinds of things does a third year fashion design major get to do? Is it like one big episode of Project Runway?

CA: I wish it was! Well, there’s no Heidi and no prize, unless you’re counting your degree, but we do get to design pieces and put them on the runway. It’s usually just one or two at the end of particular classes, but when you graduate you get to design an entire collection and show it.

FA: Sounds exciting. Do you feel that the classes you take help you develop as a designer or that it’s something you either have or you don’t?

CA: A little bit of both. I think that some people are just born with the inspiration and drive to design, it’s like an itch. If you don’t have the passion for it in the first place, that will show in your clothes. But classes here definitely help us hone core skills that are necessary, like draping, making patterns, how to sew, (laughs) yea, that’s a slightly essential skill.

FA: We’ve seen some of your designs, and we have to say they’re really good. Where do you get your inspiration from?

CA: You’d think that’s an easy question but it’s not! I’m not really sure where I get it from. For me, it's so much easier to design for a particular person rather than to just pull a design out of the air. But ready-to-wear [clothing sold in stores in different sizes] is obviously a much, much larger market, and in most cases you need to work your way through ready-to-wear and really make a name for yourself before people will come to you for custom designs. A lot of the things I make are inspired by my friends or people I know. Everyone is different, and so is every piece I design.

FA: If you had to describe your designs, what sort of category or tag would you put them under?

CA: Most of my clothes have a bit of a vintage feel to them, that's just my style. Also, I would say they’re pretty wearable, in that they can be translated to petites or plus-sizes and still work. I know so many gorgeous girls that aren’t the perfect size 6 that deserve fabulous clothes. I really try to make my clothes for every shape and size.

FA: that’s actually the perfect segue into our next question. There has been a lot of media attention lately on super-skinny "waif" models and how the industry is trying to replace them with healthier looking models. Do you think that’s a good thing?

CA: Absolutely. Like I said, I know so many beautiful girls that aren’t the modeling standard, and I think that it’s important the industry shows these girls too. Its important that young girls that look up to the fashion industry see these healthier models and know that you can be beautiful without being a size 0.

FA: You obviously work with models at FIT to show your clothes, do you find that the school is looking for only super-skinny girls or that theyre going with the flow and getting models of different shapes and sizes?

CA: They definitely are changing with industry, I’ve seen a lot of diverse girls on our runway in the past year or two years, and I think it's really great.

FA: So you’ve got one more year to go here, what are your plans after that?

CA: Well I’m hoping to go to design school in London, there are such amazing opportunities there if you're good enough. You can work with really big names and do a lot of networking. So hopefully that works out, and I’ll be a famous designer soon! Keep your fingers crossed!

FA: Will do. Well, thank you for your time Christina, and good luck! We’ll keep our eyes open for your name on the racks!

Fashion Industry Making Improvements

2008-04-13T18:17:00.000-04:00

The fashion industry all over the world is making big changes. We reported France's agreement to use healthier models this past week, and in addition to that, there have been reports on changes made in Australia. Today, Upi.com reported that the industry in Australia has made the move to ban models under the age of 16 from walking the runways.

"The decision followed an uproar over an invitation to Monika Jagaciak of Poland, who, at age 14, has been on the cover of Harper's Bazaar and in ads for Calvin Klein and Hermes, the French fashion company. Jagaciak was expected to be the fashion week headliner."

Polish model Monika Jagaciak

Vogue Editor Kristy Clements has even made the decision to pull Jagaciak from their fashion week coverage this year, Abc News reported:

"I mean there's the obvious sexualisation of very young girls ... but also the reason that they are using them so young because they haven't actually developed women's bodies yet. And that is a whole other part of the business that's a problem," Clements said. "They want them so thin they have to get them pre-pubescent."'

Clements is calling for action from the industry, saying that they need to band together as a whole and make some changes. Good for you Kristy!

Photo of the Week

2008-04-11T19:43:00.000-04:00

Going along with our anti-waif theme, this is a photo of plus size model Crystal Renn, shown here in Jean-Paul Gaultier Spring 2006 fashion show in Paris. She has also been in Vogue and is in an international campaign for Dolce & Gabbana.

Healthy vs. Fashionable

2008-04-11T18:20:00.001-04:00

Models have always been and aways will be thin with the "ideal" body. More and more though, the "waif" (which legendary model Twiggy originated) have been replaced with still thin, but healthier looking models. The pressure to be the classic waif pushed many models towards bulimia, anorexia, and other eating disorders in order to fit the fashionable mold. Many designers have been fighting this trend by hiring healthier looking models for their shows and shoots.

This being such a step forward for the fashion industry, it's disappointing that some of the biggest names out there are still choosing these unhealthy girls to model their designs. During Paris Fashion Week in January, 2008, these super-thin models were seen traipsing down the runways of both designers Armani and Valentino. With so many names trying to promote a healthier ideal, it's sad to see that these names won't use their power to do the same. Instead, they promote and encourage an unhealthy body image for both models and consumers.

In early April, fashion houses, advertising firms, and media houses in France signed an agreement with the support of the Minister of Health to stop using waif models in their shows, ads, etc. The industry is concerned about the effect these skinny models have on the body image of young girls especially, and they hope that banding together and showing a healthier model will have a positive effect on girls. According to Thatsfit.com,

"France's National Assembly is also reviewing a project that could make the promotion of unhealthy body images punishable by law."

Although this agreement isn't a binding contract, more of a show of good faith, we hope that some of the high-end Italian designers will take notice and do the same.

We think that Madrid is on the right track and is an example to be followed. During Madrid Fashion Week in February 2008, Theage.com reported that three British models were banned from walking because they were underweight. Madrid's 2006 ban of underweight models requires that all models are weighed and BMI calculated. Girls with BMI's less than 18 are not allowed to participate in Fashion Week. In 2006, five models were banned, as well as another five during 2007's Madrid Fashion Week.

Though no action as drastic as the ban in Madrid has been taken, even the industry in New York is starting to address the problem of super-skinny models on the runway. MSNBC.com reports what we hope is just the first of many steps to be taken. The Council of Fashion Designers of America, or CFDA, issued these guidelines to designers in NY:

Keep models under 16 off the runway and don’t allow models under 18 to work at fittings or photo shoots past midnight.
Educate those in the industry to identify the early warning signs of eating disorders.
Require models identified as having an eating disorder to receive professional help and only allow those models to continue with approval from that professional.
Develop workshops on the causes and effects of eating disorders, and raise awareness of the effects of smoking and tobacco-related disease.
During fashion shows, provide healthy meals and snacks, while prohibiting smoking and alcohol.

Unfortunately, these are merely suggestions and are not in any way enforced by the industry. They should be! Hopefully all the recent attention that has been put on waif models and the negative affect they have on girls and on the industry itself will force a change from designers and models alike.

TV Update

2008-04-07T14:32:00.000-04:00

In the past week and a half a lot has happened on our favorite fashion reality shows.

On "Make Me A Supermodel," America voted, and Holly was chosen as the winner. All thats left to see is if she actually gets any modeling work. Project Runway fans might recognize her outfit; it is indeed one of PR designer Christian Siriano's pieces, similar to the tan and brown organza piece he showed at fashion week.

ANTM is back in the swing of things and throwing models on the cutting board left and right. Most recently eliminated was Aimee

followed by Claire. Models still in the running are Anya, Dominique, Fatima, Katarzyna, Lauren, Stacey Ann, and Whitney.

Banana Republic Announces Participation in Earth Week

2008-04-02T14:33:00.000-04:00

It's great to see companies and businesses giving back. Today Banana Republic made the annoucement that they would be donating 1% of their sales during Earth Week. 1% may not seem like alot, but it certainly amounts to a substantial donation. According to Prnewswire.com,

"Banana Republic is pleased to annouce its participation in Earth Week. From April 22nd through April 2th, one percent of all in-store and online sales, up to $100,000, will be donated to The Trust for Public Land nonprofit organization to support their efforts in preserving urban spaces."

Banana Republic is also giving it's customers opportunities to getn involved. Customers can join employees volunteering in New York or San Francisco restoring parks and other underserved areas. Or, customers can simply donate at http://www.bananaRepublic.com/Earthweek

Fashion TV

2008-03-26T14:01:00.000-04:00

Here's some updates on some of our favorite fashion related shows:

Project Runway: Winner Christian Siriano! At only 21, Christian is the youngest winner of Project Runway. For me, he was a shoe-in at the start!

Last week on America's Next Top Model, Marvita had her dreams crushed when her mediocre picture forced Tyra and the rest of panel to vote her off.

This week on "Make Me A Supermodel", three models were put up for the vote, and America decided that Shannon could not be made into a supermodel. With only four left (Holly, Ben, Ronnie, and Perry), we'll find out the winner soon! My vote? Holly all the way!

Photo of the Day

2008-03-25T17:22:00.000-04:00

Photo of the Day

This photograph by M2K Studios caught my eye as I was looking through various fashion photos today. The angles of the body are beautiful, and the model managed to use her prop in a way that didn't look like a catalouge photo. The body is interesting while still showing the clothes.

Welcome!

2008-03-25T13:59:00.001-04:00

Welcome!

Welcome to Ad Vivum, a blog about news, trends, happenings and events in the fashion industry. Enjoy!